#TITLE_ALTERNATIVE#

• Main Author: JULIANA (NIM 27105002), NETTY
• Format: Theses
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/13706
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

Traditional songket is one of cultural products of Palembang's people. According to a historical record on Palembang Sultanate, expertise in songket weaving has been inherited from generation to generation by informal learning. In 1980s, most Palembang's people were skillful in weaving. Observed from a form aspect, songket clothes carry an influence of the acculturation of Kong Hu Chu and Indian cultures. It could be seen from the styles of diverse ornaments and colors presented in lungsi and pakan yarn structures. The major study of this thesis focused on an attempt of studying the forms of songket and of making sense of the symbols of diverse ornaments from a viewpoint of the people's socio-cultural background and its surrounding natural environment. The study of the forms of Palembang songket used a descriptive research method with a cultural approach. The data collection was conducted by literature study and observation on the Palembang songket and interviews with designers, craftsmen, songket collectors, and Bala Putera Dewa museum's employees. This thesis studied the forms of Palembang songket for a time period from 1983 to 2006, such as Lepus Berakam, Lepus Rakam Bungo Pacar, Lepus Nago Bersarang, Tawur Kembang Cempuk Cantik Manis, Bungo Jatuh, Tawur Tajung Rumpak, Lepus Nampan Perak, Tawur Bungo Cempuk Tampuk Manggis, Tawur Limar Bintang, Lepus Bungo Jatuh songkets. In every piece of traditional Palembang songket clothes there are three main parts in the motif structure of songket clothes, namely, Tumpal or Pucuk Rebung, middle flower and cloth peripheral motifs. All the three main parts in the songket clothes are of diverse types of motif forms that differ from one another, but possess an integral union and are arranged with the ornaments Palembang's cultural community has agreed on.