Numerical modelling, Wave characteristics, SWAN 41.01

• Main Author: Badar, Chuslul
• Format: Final Project
• Language: Indonesia
• Subjects: Teknik (Rekayasa, enjinering dan kegiatan berkaitan)
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/32189
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

Based on the 2011-2031 Sorong Regency’s Urban Land Use Plan, Mariat District in Sorong, Papua Barat, will be developed as integrated industrial and port area. One of the potential that will be developed is marine tourism. Based on that plan, Sorong Government has composed Masterplan Kawasan Wisata Bahari document. But, in planning process, the wave characteristics in Mariat District has not been observed yet. The aim of this research is to model or characterized the waves in Mariat District. The wave model can be analyzed and compared to the space structure and spatial pattern of planned masterplan. In this research, numerical method is used. Numerical method considers the effect of the spatial propagation, refraction, shoaling, dissipation, and interaction of non-linear wave. SWAN 41.01 software is used for modelling the wave characteristics. Bathymetry, coastline, and wind data are used as input data. The result of this research shows that dominant wave event follows the monsoon period in Indonesia. In west monsoon, the dominant wave is northwest wave. In east monsoon, the dominant wave is southwest and west wave. In extreme condition, the significant wave height is only 0.358 m. The maximum mean wavelength is 16.591 m. and the maximum mean period is 0.81 s. Based on World Meteorological Organization (WMO), this wave characteristic is categorized as mini-waves. This mini-waves will also give low wave-forces to coastal structures. So, it can be concluded that the determination of Mariat District as location for establishing the marine tourism is accurate based on the wave characteristics that occurs in that area.