REFLECTION WAVE ON SLOPING BEACH
Most water wave simulations use xed boundaries. This simplication of course change the wave height prediction near the shore. In this thesis, we will nd a relation between re ected wave and incoming wave on a sloping beach. The 1-D nonlinear shallow water equation is solved using conservative ni...
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| Format: | Theses |
| Language: | Indonesia |
| Online Access: | https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/34203 |
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| Institution: | Institut Teknologi Bandung |
| Language: | Indonesia |
| Summary: | Most water wave simulations use xed boundaries. This simplication of course
change the wave height prediction near the shore. In this thesis, we will nd
a relation between re
ected wave and incoming wave on a sloping beach. The
1-D nonlinear shallow water equation is solved using conservative nite volume
method. This scheme plus wet and dry procedure can simulate wave running
up and down on a sloping beach. Comparison with WKB solution and Carrier
and Greenspan analytical run up and down waves shows a good agreement.
Then, we use this scheme to nd a relation between re
ected and incident
wave on a sloping beach, incorporating the moving shoreline. And we obtain
amplitude ratio and phase dierence depending on wave frequency for moder-
ate bottom slopes. |
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