FORMULASI MASKER GEL PEEL-OFF EKSTRAK ETANOL DAUN JAMBU BIJI (Psidium guajava Linn.) DAN UJI AKTIVITAS TERHADAP SEBUM BUATAN SECARA IN VITRO SERTA UJI IRITASI

• Main Author: Damayanti, Febi
• Format: Final Project
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/45407
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

Most of people have oily skin type. Based on several studies, the risk of blackheads formation on oily skin type is higher than normal skin type. Blackheads are clogging pores by sebum which often occurs in the facial skin, especially in nose and chin area. Blackhead is a type of comedone that was trapped as a black spot. Blackheads are formed caused by the sebum overproduction, it could clogs the pores of the skin surface. Guava leaves is empirically used as a peeling agent to remove blackheads. This study aims to develop the formula of peel-off mask from guava leves extract, evaluate the activity of guava leaves extract and peel-off mask from guava leaves extract against artificial sebum, and also irritation test. Crude drug of guava leaves was extracted by reflux using ethanol. The activity of extract against artificial sebum is evaluated by in vitro study. Therefore, the concentration of extract was determined. Extract was formulated in a gel base that has been optimized. The activity of peel-off mask against artificial sebum was evaluated. The evaluation for the final formula included organoleptic observation, homogeneity test, pH measurement, viscosity measurement, accelerated stability test, dispersive power test, time to dry out test and irritation test were tested. Stability test was tested untill 28 days at 25°C and 40°C with 75% relative humidity. Crude drug of guava (Psidium guajava Linn.) leaves contained flavonoid, fenol, alkaloid, saponin, kuinon, tannin, and steroid/triterpenoid. The 5%, 10%, 15%, 25% and 50% extracts could change the surface structure of the artificial sebum. The concentration of the extract according to the capacity of the peel-off mask was 8%. Peel-off mask that contained polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) 10%, glycerin 12%, propyl paraben 0,2%, methyl paraben 0,05%, propylene glycol 5%, sodium metabisulfite 1%, and extract 8% showed activity that could change the surface structure of the artificial sebum and have relatively good physical stability. After the primary irritation test against New Zealand albino rabbit, indicated that there was no irritation by final formula.