MATHEMATICAL MODEL FOR INVESTIGATING WAVE RUN-UP OVER A BEACH WITH ARBITRARY CROSS SECTION

Run-up is defined as sea wave uprush in a beach. Run-up height is affected by many factors, including the shape of the bay. As expected from physical consideration, the amplitude of incident wave and run-up height on narrow and long bay is significantly larger than on plane beach. It has negative...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Author: Hugo Respati Dewabrata, Antonio
Format: Final Project
Language:Indonesia
Online Access:https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/46375
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Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung
Language: Indonesia
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Summary:Run-up is defined as sea wave uprush in a beach. Run-up height is affected by many factors, including the shape of the bay. As expected from physical consideration, the amplitude of incident wave and run-up height on narrow and long bay is significantly larger than on plane beach. It has negative impact on environment and society. Therefore, mathematical model will be constructed to investigate runup over a beach with arbitrary cross-section for preventing this event. We will solve the governing equation, which is nonlinear shallow water equation, analytically in order to define the run-up height. The solution is found using hodograph transformation, which generalized Carrier-Greenspan transformation for wave runup on plane beach. As a result, the nonlinear shallow water equation can be reduced to a one-dimensional linear equation for a function. It generalizes previous studies on wave run-up for a plane and parabolic beach. The generalized Carrier-Greenspan approach solution is compared to direct approach solution with considering parabolic beach and sinusoidal incident wave. These approaches show the same wave equation and physical variables. It concludes generalized Carrier-Greenspan approach is more time-saving than direct approach in order to compute runup height on various bay shape. Researchers are also able to investigate run-up further on complicated bay shape using this approach.