THE EFFECTIVENESS OF POROUS MEDIUM ON REDUCING WAVE RUN-UP

• Main Author: Meilina Sutanto, Stefani
• Format: Final Project
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/52026
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

In this research, we investigate the effectiveness of porous medium on reducing wave run-up. Wave run-up is the phenomena when the high water levels achieved due to the waves that hit the coast or beach buildings which are calculated from the still water level. Wave run-up is the main cause of coastal erosion. Wave run-up height can be reduced using a porous medium. The porous medium used is mangrove forest. The shape of the beach used is a beach with one slope. In order to find out the effectiveness of porous medium on reducing wave run-up, we use run-up coefficient, which is the ratio between wave run-up height and incoming wave amplitude. The mathematical model that represents the wave propagation from the ocean passing through the porous medium then generate run-up phenomena is Nonlinear Shallow Water Equation (NSWE). Afterwards, we solve NSWE analytically using separation of variables and numerically using finite volume method on a staggered grid with the wet-dry procedure, which has an important role to obtain accurate wave run-up. For validation, we compared the numerical results with the experimental Synolakis data, these numerical results with the numerical results using Boussinesq-Type Equation, and also the numerical results with the analytical solutions. After validation, we are convinced that our numerical scheme can be implemented to simulate the wave run-up phenomena. We believe that these results will be beneficial as a part of consideration to build a coastal protection.