STABILITA DAN PENGEMBANGAN FORMULA EKSTRAK BUNGA EDELWEISS (LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM) DALAM SEDIAAN KOSMETIK KRIM

• Main Author: Ananda Putri, Rizqy
• Format: Final Project
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/54451
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

The edelweiss extract has several activities for skin including anti-aging, antioxidant, and antiinflammatory. The presence of free radicals on the skin due to several factors can cause damage to the skin. The study aims to develop a stable cream formula containing edelweiss extract. First, given the pretreatment to prevent browning on edelweiss extract. Prevention of browning was performed by adding antioxidants and surfactants. The antioxidant used was ascorbic acid (4, 11, and 18 mM) and combination of ascorbic acid and citric acid (10 mM and 2 mM). The surfactants used were tween 80 with concentrations of 1%, 3%, and 5% and Cremophor 40 with concentrations of 1%, 3%, and 5%. Optimization of cream base formula was done by literature review. The evaluation of the cream formula was a stability test including organoleptic, viscosity, and centrifugation at temperatures of 8 o C, 25 o C, and 40 o C. Then antioxidant activity of edelweiss extract was conducted by DPPH method. The results showed that the antioxidant combination of ascorbic acid and citric acid with a concentration of 10 mM and 2 mM was the best concentrate which indicated the lowest absobance increase of 10% for 6 days. The treatment with surfactant displayed that the lowest absorbance increase was given by Cremophor 40 with a concentration of 3%. Whereas, based on base optimization, obtained the best formula cream was PEG-100 sterate 1%, cetyl alcohol 3.5%, ceteareth 1%, glyceryl stearate 3.5%, Caprilic/capric triglycerides 1.5%, isopropyl myristic 1.5%, ethyl paraben 0.5%, glycerin 3%, carbomer 0.5%, titanium dioxide 4%, with concentrated of extract as much as 5%. Based on the literature obtained that antioxidant activity of edelweiss extract at the concentration of ABI (Active Biotechnological Ingredients) 100 ?g/mL could scavenge DPPH radical around 80-90%.