KAJIAN PUSTAKA FORMULASI DAN KARAKTERISASI EMULSI KRISTAL CAIR MINYAK CALENDULA (CALENDULA OFFICINALIS L.) UNTUK MENGATASI PENUAAN DINI PADA KULIT

• Main Author: Hastuti Sanur, Aprilia
• Format: Final Project
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/56525
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

Photoaging is one of the main causes of premature skin aging which triggers excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) due to repeated exposure to UV rays on skin, thereby reducing the skin barrier and causing dry skin. Calendula oil has excellent antioxidant activity beneficial for suppressing excessive ROS production. Liquid crystal emulsion formula of calendula oil was designed to improve skin hydration and increase emulsion stability. Fatty alcohol plays a role in the formation of the liquid crystal structure in the emulsion. In this study, the use of fatty alcohols in 5 liquid crystal emulsion formulas were studied based on literature review found in the Q1-Q3 journals published during the 2001-2021 period obtained from Google Scholar, PubMed, and ResearchGate. It is reported that the fatty alcohol-based formulas shown liquid crystalline conformation revealed by polarization microscopic imaging. Formula evaluation was carried out to determine the designed calendula oil formula with the desire criteria of having a pH in the range of 5 to 7, particle size less than 10 ?m, potential zeta value above ±30 mV, constant viscosity profile during storage, and thixotropic flow properties. The formulation design of calendula oil liquid crystal emulsion consisted of 5-15% calendula oil, 4% alkyl polyglycosides, 2% stearyl alcohol, 4% caprylic capric triglycerides, 0,1% NaCl, 3-5% dimethicone, 3-5% glycerin and 0,1-0,3% 1,3- dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM Hydantoin).