FORMULASI DAN EVALUASI 1N-SITU DENGAN VIDEO DERMATOSCOPY MIKROEMULS1 NI NATRIUM ASKORB/L FOSFAT SEBAGAI KOSMETEK ANTI KERUT

• Main Author: Putra, Angga
• Format: Final Project
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/64287
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

Wrinkle skin is one of aging sign that cause problem for women. Because of that, anti wrinkle is becoming popular in market for aging skin solution. In this modern technologies, cosmetics with a new delivery system that gave better and faster results are developed. Which one of them is topical cosmetic with microemulsion delivery system. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is an active ingredient that has a function for anti-wrinkle and can be made to be microemulsion. Microemulsion can make SAP penetrate better into the skin than cream or gel delivery system. One factor that supporting the quality of cosmetic is how to evaluate it, and actually the problem that being gotten by cosmetic product is how to evaluate objectively, accurately, and fast. This research will focused to evaluate cosmetic with using direct method skin record, instead using silicon replica method (indirect method) that used to using by Indonesia cosmetic company. The evaluation will used video- dermatoscopy instrument (VD) that will evaluate the outer layer of skin. The purposes of this research are to formulated SAP W/O (water in oil) microemulsion and evaluate the effectiveness of its anti- wrinkle effect by using VD. The cosmetic is made by mixing oil phase, that containing with VCO and croduret 50 SS/ tween 80, with water phase, that containing with aquades, glycerin, and also NAP on 40 °C. The optimization of formula for the base will be search. After the microemulsion has been produced, the organoleptic evaluation should be done. The SAP contain in dosage-form, the physical stabilitation evaluation including centrifugation, 6 cycles freeze thaw at 4-40 °C, irritation test, and stabilitation test which include pH, viscocity and content. In-situ evaluation will be done by asking six volunteer for using the cosmetic for three weeks and every week the skin will be captured by VD. From the various comparisons croduret 50 SS and glycerin with the ratio of 1:1 (w / w) gives a clear white microemulsion and a bit coconuts smelly. Obtained an average pH of the preparation at room temperature is 6,44 while the average pH at 40 ± 2 °C, RH 75 f 5% is 6,47. The average viscosity of the preparation at room temperature is. 13.913cps. Whereas the average viscosity of the preparation at 40 ± 2 °C, RH 75 + 5% was 13.470 cps. The average content SAP of preparation at room temperature is 93,47% while average levels at 40 °C is 94,81%. Freeze- thaw and centrifugation test results also shows the mieroeulsion was stable. In this study also found the test results of diffusion 104,24% after 5 hours diffusion. The microemulsion does not irritate the skin and eye of rabbits that also connoted not irritate human skin after irritation test on 3 New-Zealand rabbits. Last, the VD evalution showed that the cosmetic is effective for being an anti-wrinkle. A formula that contain of 30% croduret 50 SS, 30% glycerin, 5% aquades, 5% phosphate buffer pH 6,4, and VCO ad 100% will give an anti- wrinkle cosmetic that give a match pH for skin, almost not irritated, good diffused, and effective to decrease wrinkle in the skin based on VD-instrument evaluation.