NEW VALUES OF THE NIAS WAR DRESS FOR INDONESIAN CONTEMPORARY FASHION DEVELOPMENT

• Main Author: Clarissa Langi, Kezia
• Format: Dissertations
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/64567
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

Clothing is a system of identity and cultural markers. As a cultured society, clothing is used as a means of communication between humans and their culture. The study of clothing can provide insight into the evolution of civilization. Clothing provides important evidence to help us understand what happened in the past and how it affects the present. Psychologically, clothing can trigger abstract concepts related to the symbolic, thus lending a temporary identity to the wearer. This opens up new opportunities in transforming traditional clothing into a contemporary fashion. The abundance of structures, materials, motifs, colors, and accessories in traditional clothes that have noble values, meanings, and cultural heritage can be an inspiration for Indonesian Fashion to give Indonesian identity to the Indonesian people. This research is a qualitative research with a research-based design approach. The stages of this research are divided into three stages: exploration, translation, and implementation stages. Data was collected using ethnographic methods and literature review. This research uses the first field study from 22 to 24 August 2019 in Gunungsitoli City and Bawomataluo Village. The Covid-19 pandemic that has been present since March 2020 in Indonesia has resulted in primary data being taken via email and online interview. Secondary data utilizes literature data from journals, books, dissertations, proceedings, and online Museum archives. The identification of the meaning of the artifact is carried out by Fashion Semiotics by Roland Barthes and identification of shapes are seen through the theory created by Thomas Munro; The translation stage is carried out through the stages of design brief, inspiration, translation of traditional design elements into contemporary fashion designs: structural design elements, materials, colors, and accessories, development of design works, presentation of designs to the market through focus group discussions and surveys, and design revisions based on market input. The Nusantara Fashion Creation Method, which is a research finding, as well as the implementation of this research through the application of contemporary Fashion collections. This study produced several findings: (1) This study categorizes and provides characteristics of the types of clothing commonly worn in Indonesia: daily clothing (comfortable), adat (ritual), wedding (royalty), dance (narattion), and uniform iv (institutional). The process of transforming traditional clothing into modern clothing has been carried out by the Indonesian people, especially in the form of traditional wedding attire and contemporary fashion collections inspired by traditional fabrics and motifs. (2) The value of traditional Indonesian clothing is obtained through research on structural design elements, materials, motifs, colors, and accessories which are concluded with adjectives to describe an identity. This study reveals the values of Nias war clothes, namely 'self-expression,' 'adaptable,' 'ferocious,' and 'hierarchical,' (3) The values extracted from traditional clothing can be transferred to the collection of contemporary fashion. This research develops a collection of contemporary fashion inspired by the values and structure of Nias war clothing as the identity and characteristics of new clothing which is translated through TARUNG, a contemporary fashion collection with ten looks. (4) The process of developing the TARUNG collection is a confirmation of the effectiveness of the Archipelago Fashion Design Guidelines as a guide in designing contemporary fashion collections inspired by traditional Nusantara clothing.