A THREE-LAYER MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION OVER SUBMERGED POROUS MEDIA

High-amplitude ocean waves coming to the shoreline can potentially damage coastal areas. Coral reefs are natural coastal defense structures that can dampen the incoming waves and protect the marine ecosystem balance. This work will develop a mathematical model to study the effectiveness of coral...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Author: Karima, Nadhira
Format: Theses
Language:Indonesia
Online Access:https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/64844
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Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung
Language: Indonesia
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Summary:High-amplitude ocean waves coming to the shoreline can potentially damage coastal areas. Coral reefs are natural coastal defense structures that can dampen the incoming waves and protect the marine ecosystem balance. This work will develop a mathematical model to study the effectiveness of coral reefs as submerged porous media in reducing the wave amplitude. The mathematical model will be developed from potential theory and later form a three-layer fluid model similar to Shallow Water Equations. The model will be solved analytically and numerically to determine the wavenumber and the wave transmission coefficient representing the wave amplitude reduction magnitude. The analytical solution will be obtained using the separation of variables method. Later, a finite volume method on a staggered grid will be applied to form a numerical scheme. To validate the constructed numerical model, the numerical solution will be compared with the analytical solution. Additionally, the mathematical model will be validated using experimental data. Further, numerical simulations will also be conducted to observe the wave propagation over multiple two-layer submerged porous media, which has not been studied by other research before, and the effect of the dimension and characteristics of porous media to determine the optimum configuration. The output of this research is expected to increase people’s awareness of the importance of coral reefs preservation to enhance coastal resilience.