A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP
Waterwavesthatpropagatefromoceantothecoastexperienceaprocesscalled shoaling,namelyanincreaseinwaveamplitude,aswellasadecreaseinpropa- gation speedandwavelength.Inaddition,thenonlineareffectbecomesimportant when theamplitude-to-depthratiobecomeslargeenough,suchaswhenthewave has reachedacoastalare...
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id-itb.:707082023-01-19T11:42:52ZA TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP Artanta Ginting, Maria Indonesia Dissertations non-hydrostaticmodel,dispersionrelation,waterwavesimulation, run-up, embeddedinfluxing. INSTITUT TEKNOLOGI BANDUNG https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/70708 Waterwavesthatpropagatefromoceantothecoastexperienceaprocesscalled shoaling,namelyanincreaseinwaveamplitude,aswellasadecreaseinpropa- gation speedandwavelength.Inaddition,thenonlineareffectbecomesimportant when theamplitude-to-depthratiobecomeslargeenough,suchaswhenthewave has reachedacoastalarea.Themainchallengeofamathematicalmodelof water wavesisitsabilitytoaccuratelycalculatewavevelocity,bothatmedium and shallowdepths,andtotakethenonlineareffectsintoaccount.Bothplayan important roleinpredictingthewaverun-upheightwhenitarrivesatthebeach. Accordingtotheshallowwaterequations(abbreviatedasSWE),thewavepropa- gation velocity(phase)isthesameforeachwavenumber.Meanwhile,accordingto Airy’stheory,thephasevelocityofawavediffersdependingonthewavenumber; this isknownasthewavedispersioneffect.Thedifferenceinwavepropagation speed isquitesignificantinmediumdepthanddeepwaterareas.Therefore,to be abletosimulatewavespropagationfrommediumdepthareatoshallowarea, a modelthatcountdispersioneffectsisneeded.Inthisstudy,weadoptedatwo- layer non-hydrostaticmodel,abbreviatedasNH-2L.Thismodelisquiteefficient, because theverticalintervalisonlydividedintotwoparts,andinherewewill discuss theaccuracyofthismodelinsimulatingwavepropagation,aswellas shorelinedynamics.Anotherchallengeinimplementingthedispersivemodelis the mechanismofwavegeneration,especiallytherelativelyshortwaves.Insome cases thatusetheNH-2Ldispersivemodel,wavegenerationisimplementedusing the embeddedinfluxingmethod.Inaddition,wealsodiscusstheapplicationofthe embedded influxingmethodtoimplementtransparentboundaryconditions. Variousmodelvalidationswerecarriedoutincludingsimulationofstandingwaves, propagationofharmonicwavesonaninclinedplaneandaboveabreakwater, propagationandrun-upofsolitarywaves,aswellassimulationofwavefocusing. Validationiscarriedoutonexperimentaldataandoranalyticalresults.The validation resultsshowagoodfit,whichindicatestheaccuracyoftheNH-2Lmodel that weused.Finally,non-hydrostaticmodelsfortwo-dimensionalproblemsare discussed; The1-layermodelreviewedwassuccessfullyvalidatedbysimulating two testcases,namelythesolitarywavepropagationontheconicalisland,andon the slopingbay. text |
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Waterwavesthatpropagatefromoceantothecoastexperienceaprocesscalled
shoaling,namelyanincreaseinwaveamplitude,aswellasadecreaseinpropa-
gation speedandwavelength.Inaddition,thenonlineareffectbecomesimportant
when theamplitude-to-depthratiobecomeslargeenough,suchaswhenthewave
has reachedacoastalarea.Themainchallengeofamathematicalmodelof
water wavesisitsabilitytoaccuratelycalculatewavevelocity,bothatmedium
and shallowdepths,andtotakethenonlineareffectsintoaccount.Bothplayan
important roleinpredictingthewaverun-upheightwhenitarrivesatthebeach.
Accordingtotheshallowwaterequations(abbreviatedasSWE),thewavepropa-
gation velocity(phase)isthesameforeachwavenumber.Meanwhile,accordingto
Airy’stheory,thephasevelocityofawavediffersdependingonthewavenumber;
this isknownasthewavedispersioneffect.Thedifferenceinwavepropagation
speed isquitesignificantinmediumdepthanddeepwaterareas.Therefore,to
be abletosimulatewavespropagationfrommediumdepthareatoshallowarea,
a modelthatcountdispersioneffectsisneeded.Inthisstudy,weadoptedatwo-
layer non-hydrostaticmodel,abbreviatedasNH-2L.Thismodelisquiteefficient,
because theverticalintervalisonlydividedintotwoparts,andinherewewill
discuss theaccuracyofthismodelinsimulatingwavepropagation,aswellas
shorelinedynamics.Anotherchallengeinimplementingthedispersivemodelis
the mechanismofwavegeneration,especiallytherelativelyshortwaves.Insome
cases thatusetheNH-2Ldispersivemodel,wavegenerationisimplementedusing
the embeddedinfluxingmethod.Inaddition,wealsodiscusstheapplicationofthe
embedded influxingmethodtoimplementtransparentboundaryconditions.
Variousmodelvalidationswerecarriedoutincludingsimulationofstandingwaves,
propagationofharmonicwavesonaninclinedplaneandaboveabreakwater,
propagationandrun-upofsolitarywaves,aswellassimulationofwavefocusing.
Validationiscarriedoutonexperimentaldataandoranalyticalresults.The
validation resultsshowagoodfit,whichindicatestheaccuracyoftheNH-2Lmodel
that weused.Finally,non-hydrostaticmodelsfortwo-dimensionalproblemsare
discussed; The1-layermodelreviewedwassuccessfullyvalidatedbysimulating
two testcases,namelythesolitarywavepropagationontheconicalisland,andon
the slopingbay. |
format |
Dissertations |
author |
Artanta Ginting, Maria |
spellingShingle |
Artanta Ginting, Maria A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP |
author_facet |
Artanta Ginting, Maria |
author_sort |
Artanta Ginting, Maria |
title |
A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP |
title_short |
A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP |
title_full |
A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP |
title_fullStr |
A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP |
title_full_unstemmed |
A TWO-LAYER NON-HYDROSTATIC MODEL FOR WAVE PROPAGATION AT INTERMEDIATE DEPTH AND SHALLOW TILL RUN-UP |
title_sort |
two-layer non-hydrostatic model for wave propagation at intermediate depth and shallow till run-up |
url |
https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/70708 |
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1822991696455008256 |