STUDY OF MONASCUS PIGMENTS AZAPHILONE DERIVATES AND IN SILICO TOXICITY TEST AND THE USE OF MONASCUS PURPUREUS ANGKAK EXTRACT AS COSMETIC COLORANT

• Main Author: Yuliana, Anna
• Format: Dissertations
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/45826
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

Researches of Monascus pigments are progressing rapidly including the discoveries of new pigments that are derivatives from the main pigments of yellow, orange and red. The research data obtained are still secluded in many research journals, therefore the data have to be compiled, especially information on the levels of toxicity of each pigments that have been found. The compilation would be the basis for the safety use of Monascus pigments as natural pigments. Information about derivates of pigment from Monascus purpureus Indonesian strain is not yet known, including reports of the use of Monascus pigment as a natural pigment in food, medicine and cometics are also very limited. The aims of this research were to study derivates of Monascus pigments including the determination of toxic effect, the identification of derivates Monascus purpureus pigments from Indonesian strain and the use of pigment extract as cosmetic colorant. Study of more than 300 worlwide published research articles has been conducted regarding with isolation and identification of Monascus pigment derivates from 1976 to 2015. Results of the study obtained 57 derivates of Monascus pigment compiled and equipped with chemical structure, chemical formula, molecular weight, name of pigment, strain and substrate, color and the identification method used. In Silico method studied to determination the level of solubility and toxicity using Ecosar and PreAdmet. The results of toxicity assay with Ecosar showed the level of pigment toxicity agains aquatic organisms based on Log P value, the lower of Log P value, the less toxic effect. Result of toxicity test with PreAdmet showed that Monascopyridine A, B and C gave negatif result to Ames and Carsino test. The use of in silico method for Monascus research was the first time applied and expected to guide for future Monascus research to produce complete and applicative result. Study of Monascus in Indonesia found five Monascus purpureus strains coded by; IPBCC-A, IPBCC-B, ITBCC-HD-001, INACC-F147 and INACC-F01. The five strains of Monascus purpureus are fermented using rice as substrate and incubated for 14-28 days at temperathure 25-28 o C. The fermentation product was extracted using methanol 96% by setrifugation method with 3000 rpm for 15 min and analyzed pigment using UV-Vis Spectrophotometer and Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS). Pigment identification was performed by selecting extract from one galur based on LC-MS chromatogram and extract Monascus purpureus INACC-F01 was the selected galur. The pigment extracts were separated using the vacuum column chromatography method and the fraction was identified using LC-MS column of Cosmosil 5C18-MS-II, and flow rate of 0.5 mL/min. The experiment was identified eleven pigments derivates; Monarubrin (Y, BF), Xanthomonascin A, Xanthomonascin B, Rubropunctin, Monapurones B, Monapurones C, Monankarin AB, Red Shandong 2, Monascopyridine A, Monascopyridine B and Monascopyridine C. Pigment identification process refers to the data which was summarized from the results of studies derivates of Monascus pigment that have been done previously. The use of pigment extract as a cosmetic colorant begins with the selection of extracts that showed the highest red pigment absoption based on UV-Vis Spectrophotometer analysis. Monascus purpureus IPBCC-B extract was selected as a colorant for use in preparation of lipstick and blush-on composition. The formulation process begins by testing the material specifications and the stability of the pigment extract with the variation of pH and temperature. Lipstick and blush-on are made four compositions with 10%w/w pigment extract content and variation of lecithin concentration 0, 1, 2 and 3%w/w. Evaluation product performed through a series of tests; organoleptic, homogeneity, melting point, pH, irritation, patch, moisture effectiveness, product stability, hardness, cracking and hedonic. The experiments showed that Monascus purpureus pigment could be used as colorant on lipstick and blush-on and the product with the best acceptance was the extract composition of 10% in 2% of lesithin.