FORMULATION AND ANTI-WRINKLE EVALUATION OF EGGSHELL MEMBRAN HYDROLYSATE FROM LAYER CHICKEN (GALUS GALUS) AND RUNNER DUCK (CAIRINA MOSCHATA)

• Main Author: Diah Dwi Retno Wulan, Deasy
• Format: Theses
• Language: Indonesia
• Online Access: https://digilib.itb.ac.id/gdl/view/61904
• Institution: Institut Teknologi Bandung

The study was conducted to examine the effect of eggshell membrane hydrolysate (ESMH) on the anti-wrinkle for cosmetic use. The enzymatic hydrolysis of ESMH prepared by incubation of eggshell membrane in papain enzyme and sodium sulfite combination solutions. The papain dosage and sodium sulfite concentration determinate by correlation between the dose of combination and degree of hydrolysis (DH) was analyzed. The hydrolysis of eggshell membrane with 60U/mg papain and 30mM sodium sulfite resulted in maximum total protein concentration 71.41+2.13mg/g with 35.08% degree of hydrolysis for the chicken ESMH, while the total protein of duck ESMH was 80.18+1.47mg/g with 26.0% degree of hydrolysis. The duck ESMH inhibited collagenase at 27.50% to 79.35% to a higher extent than the chicken ESMH started at 23.30%, and maximum at 74.64%. and significant compare to inhibition activity of positive control Epigallocatechin-3- Gallate start at 38% and maximum at 50,20%. For the clinical effect study, gel containing each chicken ESMH (n=12) and duck ESMH (n=12) was formulated and applied on the forehand and compared to a placebo group of gelling agent (n=12) and hyaluronic acid controlled group (n=12). Skin hydration and aging effect were determinate by clinical study, following with multiple application (6 weeks) of the gel. The increased of skin hydration and decreased skin wrinkles significantly (p< 0.05) after first week application of chicken ESMH and duck ESHM gel. Whereas the duck ESMH gel with higher hyaluronic acid concentration (1.12+0.51%) overall decreased skin wrinkle, increased skin hydration and elasticity more than chicken ESMH (1.54+0,21%) and the positive control group (0.99%).